Index:
Fabricating Gull Wings / Side Hatches
Preparing for water wading
Matilda's Hot Shower
Replacing the Spider Unit
Replacing the Water Pump and P Gasket
Swing out motor bike rack
Fabricating Gull Wings / Side Hatches
Ironically Matilda's hatches had already been fabricated when I purchased her, however I had already fabricated a set for my previous Land Rover Landy, now owned by my son Rhys.
Almost identical to that of Matilda, this is how it was done.
MATERIALS NEEDED:
1 X Sheet of Aluminium or steel,1300 x 1200mm (minimum) x 2.5 - 3mm thick (its important it dosen't flex) so do not skimp and go too thin.
The sheet will be cut to make two hatches, replacing the existing rear windows.
Thus allowing 650 x 600mm for each hatch.
4 x Southco C5 Compression Latches with Locks
4 x Gas Struts (Kitchen Cabinet door struts) 80Nm
5 Meters of universal door seal
4 x covered 316ss Hinges (top pin) Different hinges may be used (personal preferance)
6 Meters of Satin black vehicle edge trim seal
2 Meter x 25mm angaled aliminium
850mm x 1520mm Black vinyl gloss wrap (air and bubble free)
Various sized hex head countersunk screws and bolts
Preparation for water wading
You will need to locate the TWO engine wading plugs. One at the bottom of the flywheel housing, looking backwards, NOT directly underneath. The other at the bottom of the timing cover.
Axle plugs, are the small round things, with Black pipe attached (be aware pipe may be missing) at the top of the casing. Remove the black pipe and run windscreen washer tubing, or similar (there are many aftermarket kits you can purchase if preferred) to position higher (above the intended water height). The rear axle tube can run the length of the chassis (rear to front) and comes up the snorkel. If a snorkal isn't fitted, you can run it up into the rear door pillar. Front axle similar position. (its important that both tubes are higher than the intended water level, where you choose to secure them is a matter of choice to be honest)
There are also TWO gearbox breathers. Look underneath the vehicle a for similar black tubing running in to the engine bay above the bellhousing, with a hooked tool (rigid piece of wire with a bent end), position them higher up. These is normally sufficient tubing to do this, however you can also extend these to roof height if you wish.(again, as long as they are higher than the intended water level, position them where you like).
It is possible with this setup to take your vehicle through water upto the door mirrors, with NO problems.( Just a consideration, when you are wading this deep, you will be pushing approx 2 tonne of water with your vehicle, so make sure everything else is up to it).
Matilda’s HOT shower
Criteria:
Had to run hot and cold water
Had to pick up water source from both Matilda’s internal water tank and any other external supply, lake, river, bucket, hose, etc.
After a lot of planning sourcing the correct parts and fabricating some ( brackets etc) I set about installing the shower.
First problem was space!
Matilda has air con, triple charge, charging systems, snorkel etc, etc..( all of which claim space)
I overcome this by fabricating a bracket to mount the heat exchanger on the inner wing, as close to the heater pipes as possible. This worked well, as this is where I would plumb it in to the vehicle... ( heater pipes)
Water Pipes ( engine to tank and back)
Once I had the heat exchanger mounted in position, I cut in to the heater flow and return pipes. This would provide hot water through the heat exchanger, whilst the engine was running! ( I could control this to a degreee via the heater control settings)
I then installed the nessasery pipe work, using flexi hoses around the engine bay, (must be flexi in the engine bay, to alow for movement,) next I ran a 15mm rigid from front to rear of the vehicle, along the chassis.
Connecting COLD
From the Heat exchanger via a tee, to the back of vehicle ( on board water tank) and one the anti scortch valve ( this valve ensures you don’t get burnt when the water is first turned on ) I also tee’d off this pipe to go to a quick release fitting which I mounted on the frount bumper ( enabling me to draw water from another source, bucket, lake ?? and not my holding tank.
At this point I installed a one way valve into the system, ensuring that lake water??? Could not contaminate my tank.
HOT
Heat exchanger through anti scorch Valve, Teeing off to give me hot water at the taps in the rear of the vehicle. Out the anti scorch valve to a quick release fitting next to the cold one on the bumper.. ( this is where the shower head plugs in to!
Extras
15Mtr stretch hose with a shower head attached. ( with on off on the head)
Plugs for bumper mounted quick release valves, so dirt doesn’t get in and block them up.
A pop up shower tent, and job
complete!
Turn on shower, causes a pressure drop, Matilda’s pump ( already installed ) cuts in and pumps water from tank to the heat exchanger, this in turn warms up the water, before it flows to the anti scorch valve, where it mixes with cold, and comes out of shower head at desired set temperature...( set by heater controls)
Please note this system only provides hot water when the engine is running, or has just been turned off.
I am now working on a circulation system, so I can fill a water deposit and hold hot water, circulating it through the heat exchanger to keep it hot.. (whilst driving)so I won’t have to have the engine running whilst showering.. I’ll let you know how I get on with this.
Replacing the 'Spider Unit'
A common failure on Discovery Series 1 vehicles (both Tdi & V8) with the two-button alarm system, all vehicles from 1996 - 1998 is a component called the "spider''
Symptoms of this failure are typically an intermittent, non start, cutting out while driving (or both), which usually gets progressively worse.
I have seen the fault affect the fuel and cranking circuits on different 300Tdi's and the ignition circuits on V8's.
Leaving the vehicle a few minutes to a few hours will normally allow it to be started, only to happen again later.
The spider unit is a small black box, controlled by the immobiliser & alarm system, its mounted on a panel, sandwiched between the radio and the heater unit, in the centre of the dash.
Designed so thieves cant remove it in a hurry.
The Spider isolates various circuits of the vehicle; the feed to the fuel solenoid, and the feed to the starter solenoid on a 300Tdi, and ignition, fuel and starting circuits on a V8.
A combination of heat, vibration and a poor quality circuit board eventually results in its failure.
The good news is Land Rover now make a by-pass for this unit, part no. AMR4956, to solve the problems completely. It costs around £5 and can be purchased on ebay
Fitting the by-pass is the simple part. The difficult part is getting to it!
In order to gain access it's necessary to almost completely dismantle the centre panel of the dash board.
Before you do anything else its a good idea to check all the fuses and the battery. Its a real pain in the arse, to pull everything to bits only to find a blown fuse!
DIAGNOSES
Check that the immobiliser is not active.
If it is, there will be a red "key" symbol in the dash when you try to start the engine, and if there is then the problem is something else, perhaps the alarm ECU, key fob programming or such like.
Identify and check the offending circuit.
Does the vehicle crank and not fire, or does it not crank?
If its cranking but not fireing, then the problem is in the fuel solenoid circuit on a Tdi, or ignition/fuel on a V8.
Take a digital voltmeter (DVM) and check if the fuel solenoid (Tdi) or ignition coil/fuel pump (V8) has a 12 volt supply to it by connecting the meter to the relevant blade connector and earth and turning the key to position 1 (on). If there is a 12 volt supply to the circuit, then the fault probably lies elsewhere.
Check the small blade connector on the back of a 300Tdi fuel pump, down by the injector pipes, and The + terminal on the coil of a V8 .
If there is no voltage at the circuit, then its time to remove the Spider
If it does not crank, then the problem is in the starter circuit (Tdi or V8, much the same on both).
Take the thin lead off the starter solenoid on top of the starter motor, and stick a DVM between it and a good earth. Turn the key to position II (start). You should get 12 volts across the meter. If you do, then the fault is most likely with the starter motor .
To be sure, put the lead back on, stick the meter probe into the back of the connector, and operate the starter again. If there's still NO voltage, and the starter isn't doing anything, it will be the starter.
If NO voltage under load, it will probably be the Spider.
Again time to take the dash out...
OTHER SOLUTION (TEMPORARY FIX)
There is another bypass solution (on the fuel (Diesel only) solenoid).
Just supply it with an ignition controlled 12V supply. Not a proper fix, but it works.
If this circuit completely FAILS, take the solenoid controlled plunger (again Diesel only) out of the stop valve and put it back together. Your car will now start BUT it will not stop running when you turn the ignition off so you will have to stall it.
REMOVING THE SPIDER
Take out the clock & hazard light switches, and the switch blanks from underneath... ...take out the coin tray and ashtray (note one of the screws is behind the coin tray, and two behind the small facia under the radio!!
Radio and drinks holder (from underneith) out.
Then pull out, the whole main plastic centre console panel so it looks like this...
Now you can see the spider (arrowed) Unscrew the two screws holding it in, pull out and unplug. Do not be tempted to throw it as far as you can chuck it!, as you can't buy them any more! (you may want to get it repaired)?
Plug in the new bypass, and job done>>
Good idea to starte the engine, just to be sure it is ok, before putting everything back together.
Replacing water pump and p gasket
Firstly, it is possible to replace the P gasket, without disturbing the water pump.
I am going to replace P gasket and the pump at the same time, due to a seized water pump and leaking P gasket.
Signs of a leaking P gasket,are coolant stains on the engine block, just in front of the oil dip stick.
You will need a 32mm viscos fan spanner.
Disconnect the battery and drain the coolent
Remove radiator top hose
Remove inter cooler top Hose
Then remove the plastic fan cowling (held on by 2 clips
Remove the viscous fan, remember it a left handed thread. (do not over tighten when putting it back on, do it up and hit the top of the spanner with the palm of your hand to tighten it) no more force necessary, as fan spins in the same direction to stop it loosening.
Remove power steering pulley (3 bolts)
Remove the power steering pump bracket (4 bolts)
Lower pump out of the way, for more access. (do not disconnect pump hydraulic hoses..)
Remove alternator, (1 bolt at the bottom, and a nut and bolt at the top) no need to disconnect any wirRemove drive belt tenshioner (by removing the centre nut) 45NM torque setting, when replacing.
Remove remaining water hoses from thermostat, water pump and heater rail.
Remove the power steering pump bracket from the block (5 bolts, 1 with a nut, and a hidden reassessed nut, where the belt tentshioner was.
At this stage you can remove the housing without disturbing the water pump. (by removing the 3 closely bolts shown in pick) be cautious, they are very tight and prone to rounding off. (I recommend, you clean out the threads and replace these bolts) 25NM torque setting
Remove the P gasket and clean off any remaining gasket or silicon ( you can sand down the surface with fine wet and dry if needed, this is not a percishion fit.
Refitting is in reverse order. smear some hilomar blue on the P gasket when replacing ( do not use silicon)
Rear swing out motor bike rack
Di Blasi 50cc moped
Designing, fabricating and fitting a swing out (allowing rear door access) motor bike rack to carry a 32kg, Di Blasi, 50cc, folding motor bike to the rear of Matilda.
